Wednesday, August 27, 2008

We think it was the minestrone...

After posting last night, I returned to the room to find my crew asleep. After tending to the nightly repacking ritual, I popped a melatonin and headed for bed, too. Not for long. While Malu´s throwing up seemed to have ended, Kristina´s was just beginning. We counted, and I think over the course of the night she hurled something like 11 times. As morning approached, and her sickness continued, I outlined in my mind alternative travel plans (i.e., me leaving the family in the hotel to rest and recover while I go on to Machu Picchu, and returning to pick them up in a few days on the return). Fortunately, the alternative plan was not needed. By morning, Kristina had done about all she could do in the expectoration department and was feeling much better. We made our 5 a.m. pickup and our 6 a.m. train in Ollyantaytambo, 35 minutes away. I told you this was a tough crew.

And yes, we believe the minestrone at our lovely little restaurant in Urubamba, recommended by the hotel, was the culprit. I didn´t eat any, but still felt a little queasy, and still do. Not sure if that´s mere suggestion or tainted spaghetti. A minor, but very unpleasant, bump in the journey. Our first, really.

We boarded the Backpacker train in Ollyantaytambo and were immediately struck by the difference between it and the beautiful Andean Explorer. This is bare bones stuff. And every cushion, it seemed, was stained with god knows what. Nonetheless, it was roomy, laid back, and not very crowded. We sat with a young couple from Boston, on an 8 week lark before they moved to San Francisco. Yes, I bored them with San Francisco tips. And Kristina chatted up surfing with the boy, as he, too, was an afficianado. The ride was short, only 1 and a half hours, and lovely, as we headed up into the wooded mountains.

Arrived in Aguas Calientes, which sits below Machu Picchu, and exists for the sole reason of Machu Picchu tourism. And it shows. Nothing authentic about this place, but it´s efficient, and has everything a German, Italian, Frenchman, Englishman, or American could want.

We plan to board the 530 a.m. bus tomorrow morning for the 30 minute ride to the top of Machu Picchu, where we hope to catch the sunrise. Wish Riki were here to play his nose flute (you have to be there).

After that we catch the 2 p.m. bus for the return to Ollyantaytambo, where we transfer to Cusco for our last full day in Peru. Boo hoo.

5 comments:

Marshell Jean said...

Hail Freebird and Intrepid travelers,
You're exploits read like a wonderful novel, full of danger, thrills, hurling(doesn't the South American Explorers Handbook cover that?)and exotic locales. I hope all are well. You right my brother ya'll a tough crew. I hope the bay area's most adorable attorney doesn't forget to take PICTURES......Bon Chance

Kelly Hudgins said...

That's an awfully quick turnaround for minestrone!

I second my fellow commenter about the PICTURES.

I want them now.

Unknown said...

Dear Mr. J:

How cool to think that as we write, you are in Machu Picchu exploring the sights and eating coco leaves [says Nancy]. Say “aloha” to the family for us and thanks for the fun blog. As usual, we thoroughly enjoyed your blogging, as it has added some excitement to our cubicle lives.

Danielle and Nancy

P.S. [from Nancy] Don’t eat too many coco leaves or else you will turn into a coco puff. Hah! Hah!

Unknown said...

Be cool, but care (as the late post-moderns say). And, keep a tight anal sphinctur (sp?).

Renee said...

I know how sad the last few days of a trip are, over all too soon. At least I had some good reading material during my boring temp job & we still have Machu Picchu to look forward to. Make some tea out of those coco leaves.